What are the signs of a bad dog breeder?

This is our family’s dog. We bought him from that unscrupulous boss on February 14th. At that time, we thought it was very strange: why was the background of the pictures in his WeChat Moments different from that of the physical store? Why did he ask to switch to another phone halfway through our first call? Let’s put these aside and get down to business.

Here’s what happened: Our whole family loves dogs, and after careful consideration, we decided to get a Golden Retriever. The night before, I made a very wrong decision—I looked for a store selling Golden Retriever puppies on Xianyu, planning to pick it up myself. On the afternoon of the 14th, our whole family drove to the store to see the dog. I made my second mistake: I didn’t bring a parvovirus and distemper test strip (test sheet) to check the dog (unscrupulous merchants target newbies).

My child and I fell in love with him at first sight, and we immediately wanted to take him home. I made my third mistake: I didn’t listen to my parents’ advice and was determined to take him home right away.

Everyone, many of you may be wondering how to avoid these unscrupulous merchants when choosing a dog. Dogs are innocent, but these unscrupulous bosses are really annoying—they waste your time, energy and money. Based on the advice from some seniors and my own experience, I’d like to share a few points.

I. Core Anti-Scam Points (Supplemented and Improved from the Original Text)

1. Never buy a dog from a seller online, never buy a dog from a seller online, never buy a dog from a seller online. Important things need to be said three times. Eight out of ten online sellers are likely to be unscrupulous dog dealers, and these eight may even be the same merchant.
2. It is recommended that before deciding to buy a dog, buy some distemper and parvovirus test strips on Amazon. They are not expensive, costing about 10-odd US dollars. The specific usage method will be included in the manual. Today’s test strips are very quick to use, and I am in a related major. Don’t feel embarrassed—this is a kind of protection for yourself. Or you can ask the store to show proof, but never listen to the store’s one-sided words. That’s how I got scammed.
3. If you have to find a seller online, it is recommended to go unexpectedly. To verify if the dog is sick, refer to the previous point.
4. If you are unlucky enough to buy a dog from an online store without testing and verifying (as stupid as I was to get scammed), and the dog has diarrhea, it is recommended to take it to the hospital immediately. If you can’t take it to the hospital right away, it is recommended to feed it a little cefalexin or something similar to ease the symptoms first (be sure to use an appropriate amount, choose the right dosage according to the dog’s constitution and weight. Our Golden Retriever weighed 3.18 kilograms, and my parents fed him less than a quarter of cefalexin, and the diarrhea eased a bit). It may not cure the root cause, but it can delay the treatment time a little.
5. Be sure to do your homework before buying a dog. If you are afraid of buying a sick dog, I suggest you investigate first. If you know someone who sells dogs, you can go to see them first. Although parvovirus and distemper may not necessarily appear in dogs bred at home, people you know are more reliable than strangers. For testing, still refer to point 2 (but it is recommended to do it behind the owner’s back to avoid embarrassment).
6. If your dog is lucky enough to be bought through formal channels, has no early symptoms of parvovirus or distemper, and the test is negative, don’t let your guard down. Puppies have weak resistance and still need your care. So after confirming that your baby has no problems, take it to the designated place to get vaccinated and apply for a dog license as soon as possible. Generally, these designated clinics have clearly marked prices, which are very transparent.
7. Speaking of clinics, I also have something to say. I met a good doctor this time, and our baby is temporarily okay. Whether he can completely escape the clutches of death depends on his condition in the next two days. For clinics, you can generally ask if any of your relatives know a reliable veterinarian. If you are unlucky and don’t have a relative who keeps pets, there must be people in your community who keep cats and dogs. I believe people who keep pets and regard them as family members are very caring. Maybe their own fur babies have never been sick, but they must have a circle of dog and cat lovers—asking them is definitely correct. If you really can’t find one, it is recommended to look around pet markets. Generally, there are many pet sellers here. In case the pet you buy has any problems accidentally, you can see a veterinarian nearby. Generally, the owners of these stores are familiar with veterinarians. In addition, it’s even better if there are residential areas nearby, because there are many people keeping dogs and cats there. Generally, if a clinic can survive at the intersection of these two places, it means that the clinic is very popular among residents, and the price is generally not too outrageous—after all, the masses have sharp eyes. Finally, if you really can’t find any of the above, I can only suggest you go to the county’s epidemic prevention workstation or the animal disease research center of the Academy of Agricultural Sciences.
8. Final advice: If you really want your fur baby to grow up healthily and happily, don’t be afraid to spend money. Sometimes, the price of cats and dogs bought through formal channels is much higher than that from dog dealers, but buying from them will also give you a guarantee and save you a lot of time, energy and money. Take your dog to the doctor when it is sick. Of course, if you are a veterinarian yourself, I have nothing to say; if not, please find a professional. Put yourself in their shoes: when you are sick, do you want to find a professional to treat you or an unlicensed doctor? Don’t say that pet medical treatment is expensive—they are also lives. Can your conscience be at peace if you watch them leave without doing anything?

II. High-Quality Basic Equipment Provided by Standard Breeders (Must Read)

Formal breeders will not only sell “bare dogs” but also provide high-quality basic equipment, which not only reflects professionalism but also reduces the stress response of puppies after arriving home. This is also an important sign to distinguish formal breeders from unscrupulous dog dealers. It specifically includes the following categories, all of which are indispensable:

1. Puppy transition food: Special food suitable for puppies’ intestines and stomach (small package, enough for 1-2 weeks), and inform the feeding amount and frequency to avoid gastrointestinal discomfort caused by changing food;
2. Basic care set: Puppy-specific comb (suitable for the dog breed’s hair, such as a pin brush for Golden Retrievers), mild body wash (puppies have delicate skin to avoid irritation), nail clippers (puppy-specific to prevent cutting the blood line);
3. Health protection supplies: Puppy-specific deworming medicine (internal and external deworming separately, inform the usage time and dosage), simple first-aid kit (including hemostatic cotton, povidone-iodine, pet-specific antidiarrheal medicine, etc.);
4. Basic living supplies: Small dog bed (warm and breathable, suitable for the puppy’s size), food and water bowls (ceramic or stainless steel material to avoid harm from plastic material);
5. Qualification-related documents: Puppy vaccination book (clearly indicating the vaccination time and vaccine brand), deworming records, basic health certificates of the puppy’s parents (not mandatory, but formal breeders will take the initiative to provide them).

Key point: Unscrupulous dog dealers will only feed puppies cheap and low-quality food (or even not provide it), have no supporting equipment at all, and will also add extra charges on the grounds of “equipment sold separately”.

III. Comparison of Red and Black Lists for Buying Dogs (Precise Anti-Scam)

IV. Must-Ask List for Buying a Dog (Check One by One, Don’t Miss)

No matter which channel you use, you must ask the following questions one by one before buying a dog. If the answer is vague or evasive, directly pass to avoid stepping on a scam:

1. How old is the puppy? What is the specific date of birth? (Confirm whether the puppy has reached the weaning age to avoid buying unweaned puppies)
2. How many vaccines has the puppy received? What is the vaccine brand? When is the next vaccination time? (Ask to show the vaccination book and check the records)
3. How many times has the puppy been dewormed? What medicines were used for internal and external deworming? When is the next deworming time? (Ask for deworming records to avoid buying puppies that have not been dewormed)
4. Can I visit the puppy’s parents and breeding environment? (Formal breeders/pet stores will readily agree, while unscrupulous merchants will find various reasons to refuse)
5. Are you allowed to bring my own parvovirus and distemper test strips to test the puppy? (Those who refuse the test are 100% problematic)
6. Is there any after-sales guarantee after purchase? If the puppy is diagnosed with parvovirus or distemper within 7-15 days, how will it be handled? (Ask for a clear reply, preferably in writing in the contract)
7. What is the puppy’s current diet? What is the feeding amount and frequency? Will you provide transition food? (Confirm dietary suitability and reduce stress response)
8. Has the puppy ever been sick, had diarrhea, vomiting, etc.? Is there a history of congenital diseases? (Those who tell the truth are more reliable; those who deliberately conceal need to be vigilant)
9. Is the price fixed? Are there any additional hidden costs (such as vaccination fees, deworming fees, handling fees, etc.)? (Avoid being charged extra later)
10. Will basic equipment be provided as supporting items? What specific items are included? (Compare with the standard breeder equipment list to check if it is complete)

V. Key Points of the Dog Purchase Contract (Top Priority, Must Read!)

Many people are embarrassed to ask for a contract when buying a dog, or don’t read the details when they get the contract—this is the biggest hidden danger! Formal transactions must sign a written contract. The following key points are indispensable. Be sure to check them one by one and never sign if they are not clear:

1. Basic information of both parties: Clearly state the names, phone numbers and addresses of the buyer and the seller (breeder/pet store). The seller shall indicate the full name of the store/kennel (if any) to avoid loss of contact later.
2. Basic information of the puppy: Clearly state the puppy’s breed, gender, date of birth, coat color and weight. It is best to attach a recent photo of the puppy (to avoid the seller replacing the puppy).
3. Health commitment clause (core):
   • The seller promises that the puppy has no severe infectious diseases such as parvovirus, distemper, infectious hepatitis, or major congenital diseases when sold;
   • Agree on a warranty period (7-15 days is recommended). If the puppy is diagnosed with a severe infectious disease within the warranty period, the liability to be borne by the seller (such as full refund, replacement of the puppy, bearing 50%-100% of the treatment costs);
   • If the seller conceals the puppy’s illness, the buyer has the right to terminate the contract, require the seller to refund all payments, and compensate the buyer for the treatment costs, transportation costs and other losses incurred thereby.
4. Vaccination and deworming clauses: Clearly state the number of vaccines received by the puppy, the brand, the vaccination time, and the next vaccination time; the number of dewormings done, the drug brand, and the next deworming time. The seller shall provide relevant records as attachments to the contract.
5. Supporting equipment clauses: Clearly state the list of basic equipment (compared with standard breeder equipment), quantity and quality to be provided by the seller. If not provided as agreed, the buyer has the right to require the seller to supplement or reduce the corresponding fees.
6. Price and payment clauses: Clearly state the total price of the puppy, the payment method (full payment/deposit + balance), and the payment time; if there is a deposit, indicate the deposit amount and the refund conditions (e.g., if the buyer breaches the contract, the deposit will not be refunded; if the seller breaches the contract, the deposit will be doubled and refunded); clearly state that there is no hidden consumption. Any additional fees later shall be agreed upon by both parties and a supplementary agreement shall be signed.
7. After-sales clauses: Clearly state the scope of after-sales service provided by the seller (such as feeding guidance, disease consultation, etc.) and the after-sales period; agree on the communication method and processing time limit between both parties when the puppy has health problems.
8. Liability for breach of contract: Clearly state the circumstances of breach of contract by both parties and the liability to be borne (e.g., if the seller replaces the puppy or conceals the illness, he shall compensate twice; if the buyer refuses to accept the puppy without reason, the deposit will not be refunded).
9. Others: The contract shall be signed by both parties (the seller shall affix the store’s official seal, if any) and the signing date shall be indicated; it is recommended to keep copies of both parties’ ID cards, the puppy’s vaccination book, and deworming records as attachments to the contract.

Key point: Unscrupulous merchants will never take the initiative to provide a contract. They may even shirk with reasons such as “we are all acquaintances/it’s a trivial matter, no need to sign a contract”. When encountering this situation, turn around and leave directly—don’t take chances!

Finally, a landlady I know told me that generally, formal pet stores will not sell more than 5 puppies together. On the one hand, there is a risk of parvovirus and distemper; on the other hand, if no one buys them, the puppies will grow up quickly. If they can’t be sold in their infancy, the store will lose money. So, generally, you can talk to the boss about what kind of dog you want, pay a part of the deposit, and the boss will help you find a satisfactory dog.

By the way, attention to friends in Los Angeles and other places: There is a pet store near Hollywood Metro Station in Los Angeles that sells sick dogs. Our fur baby was found to have problems shortly after we brought him back from there. Please be careful. I hope everyone can keep their eyes open and meet their destined master or loyal friend.

Q&A Section

Q1: What are the core anti-scam points when buying a dog?

A1: First, never buy a dog from online sellers, as most of them may be unscrupulous dog dealers. Second, buy distemper and parvovirus test strips in advance to test the dog before purchase, and do not just listen to the store’s one-sided words. Third, if you have to contact online sellers, make an unannounced visit to verify. Fourth, if you accidentally buy a sick dog without testing, take it to the hospital immediately or feed it an appropriate amount of cefalexin to relieve symptoms temporarily. Fifth, do your homework in advance, such as consulting acquaintances who sell dogs. Sixth, after buying a healthy dog through formal channels, take it to get vaccinated and apply for a dog license in time. Seventh, choose a reliable veterinary clinic through relatives, community pet owners, pet markets or official epidemic prevention workstations. Eighth, prioritize formal channels even if the price is higher, and seek professional treatment for sick dogs.

Q2: What basic equipment should formal breeders provide when selling puppies?

A2: Formal breeders should provide five categories of basic equipment: 1. Puppy transition food (a small package suitable for 1-2 weeks, with feeding amount and frequency informed); 2. Basic care set, including puppy-specific comb, mild body wash and nail clippers; 3. Health protection supplies, including puppy-specific internal and external deworming medicines and a simple first-aid kit; 4. Basic living supplies, including a warm and breathable small dog bed and ceramic or stainless steel food and water bowls; 5. Qualification-related documents, including puppy vaccination book, deworming records and basic health certificates of the puppy’s parents (not mandatory but recommended).

Q3: What are the characteristics of unscrupulous merchants in terms of puppy status and supporting services?

A3: In terms of puppy status, the puppies sold by unscrupulous merchants are usually lethargic with dull eyes, need forced feeding to maintain their state, have frequent diarrhea and vomiting, dry nose, cracked foot pads, messy and dull hair with dandruff and redness, and their illnesses are deliberately concealed and temporarily suppressed with drugs. In terms of supporting services, they refuse buyers to bring their own test strips, have no supporting equipment at all and even sell low-quality products at extra prices, and will lose contact after sales, refusing to be responsible for sick dogs sold and even blocking buyers.

Q4: What key questions must be asked before buying a dog?

A4: Ten key questions must be asked: 1. The puppy’s age and specific date of birth; 2. The number of vaccines received, vaccine brand and next vaccination time; 3. The number of dewormings, deworming drugs and next deworming time; 4. Whether you can visit the puppy’s parents and breeding environment; 5. Whether you are allowed to bring your own test strips to test the puppy; 6. Whether there is an after-sales guarantee and how to handle it if the puppy is diagnosed with severe infectious diseases within 7-15 days; 7. The puppy’s current diet, feeding amount, frequency and whether transition food will be provided; 8. Whether the puppy has ever been sick or has a history of congenital diseases; 9. Whether the price is fixed and if there are any hidden costs; 10. Whether basic equipment will be provided and the specific list of items.

Q5: What core clauses must be included in a dog purchase contract?

A5: The core clauses include: 1. Basic information of both parties; 2. Basic information of the puppy (with photos if possible); 3. Health commitment clause (no severe infectious diseases or major congenital diseases, warranty period and liability for breach of contract); 4. Vaccination and deworming clauses (with relevant records as attachments); 5. Supporting equipment clauses (list, quantity and quality); 6. Price and payment clauses (total price, payment method, deposit and no hidden consumption); 7. After-sales service clauses (scope and period); 8. Liability for breach of contract; 9. Signatures of both parties, official seal of the store (if any) and signing date.

Reference Section

Wikipedia: This page explains the definition, characteristics and hazards of puppy mills (unscrupulous dog breeding facilities), helping buyers distinguish between formal breeders and unscrupulous dog dealers, and understand the common scams of unscrupulous merchants.

American Kennel Club (AKC): This article provides a detailed checklist for preparing to bring home a new puppy, covering basic equipment preparation, home puppy-proofing, diet management and veterinary care, which is consistent with the basic equipment and health testing requirements mentioned in the original text.

American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA): This resource from ASPCA focuses on the precautions for adopting a puppy, including how to choose a reliable adoption channel, check the puppy’s health, and understand the adoption process and after-sales matters, providing important references for avoiding scams when buying a dog.

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